First-time visitors often wonder… what’s it really like to camp on one of the islands in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore?  And how can you do it, if you don’t have the desire, equipment or expertise to paddle a kayak and all of your gear to the campsite? To answer that question, we asked Samantha Howk, daughter-in-law of Friends board member Neil Howk, to tell us about her first camping experience at Presque Island Campground on Stockton Island, which is served by a hiking and camping marine shuttle service.

Hi, Friends!

My name is Samantha Howk, and I am very fortunate to be the daughter-in-law of the illustrious Neil Howk. When I first met his son/my husband, Forrest, 13 years ago, I was decidedly inexperienced in almost all things outdoorsy and had never even heard of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Lucky for me, this family’s knowledge, respect, and love for nature (especially this beautiful part of Lake Superior) is highly contagious! 

Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting many beautiful sites in and around the park, but it took until two summers ago to finally go out into the islands themselves! At long last, in August 2022, I got to experience the magic of Stockton Island (Wiisaakodewan-minis) for myself.

Bright and early on a Tuesday morning, Forrest and I lugged our backpacks, cooler, and tote bags onto the ABX (Ashland Bayfield Express) and set sail!

Campsite 13 – NPS photo

Things I packed that served me well:

• Binoculars
• Hammocks
• A few tasty beverages, in non-glass containers of course
• Those little foldy seats for kayaking or sports spectating – also great for beach days!
• A good book (Braiding Sweetgrass was my pick and wow what a beautiful complement to this trip)
• A spare water bottle exclusively to store/macerate wild blueberries – thank me later!

Things I wish I had packed but didn’t:

• Inflatable inner tubes for floating and lounging in Lake Superior

As we settled in and packed smaller bags for a beach excursion, this stunning butterfly (a mourning cloak, I believe) landed on Forrest’s backpack to show off in the sun!

We enjoyed a beautiful afternoon at Julian Bay, a classic mac & cheese dinner back at camp, and a nightcap by the campfire in the moonlight.

Sandstone shoreline off Anderson Loop Trail

Then we continued our hike all the way up to the northern end of Julian Bay to relax on the beach for a while before heading back to camp for another gorgeous evening, taking in the sunset as we ate dinner by the campfire.

As we headed to bed, I snapped this photo of the stars through the treetops – the reality of course is much grander than my amateur skills can capture.

Remember how I mentioned I used an extra water bottle to store and macerate wild blueberries? Well, we found plenty of blueberry bushes along the tombolo trail, particularly near the central bog. We gathered just a cup or two, added some water and sugar, shook up the water bottle, let it sit while we hiked back to camp, then treated ourselves to a luxurious breakfast of wild blueberry oatmeal!

We spent the rest of the day hiking around the tombolo some more, reading in the hammocks, and exploring the beaches near our campsite. We were even lucky enough to see some familiar faces at the visitor center when the Friends of the Apostle Islands annual cruise stopped by for dinner!

Friday morning we broke camp, packed up, and got back on the ABX. As an added bonus, we got to make a brief stop at Michigan Island on the way back to Bayfield!

All in all, this trip was a wonderful introduction to the variety of wildlife and scenery in the Apostle Islands, and it was romantic in every sense of the word. I was expecting it to be remote and yet popular, but I was surprised how few people we encountered during our stay. I was also pleasantly surprised at the minimal presence of biting flies, and again, I was grateful that we got so lucky with mild and clear weather. Stockton Island truly has it all – sun and shade, fin and feather, beach and bog. It is an ideal place to unplug and enjoy simple pleasures in a uniquely beautiful setting. I can’t wait to visit again, but first I have to check out some of the other islands… where should we go next?!

What you need to know before you go

Campsites must be reserved in advance. You can reserve one of the 17 Presque Isle campsites (or other sites elsewhere on the island) online at recreation.gov. Individual campsites cost $15/night and there is a $10 fee for the permit. The closest site is adjacent to the dock, and the furthest campsite is 0.75 mile away. You can find descriptions of all Stockton Island campsites on the park’s website.

Campers without their own boat can get to the island on the camper shuttle operated by Apostle Islands Cruises. The boat goes to Stockton at 8:15 a.m. every Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday through September 1. Tickets cost $63.95/adult. The boat ride takes around 40 minutes. 

For more information about other camping opportunities in the park be sure to visit the Discover the Park section of our website as well as the National Park Service site.