During this challenging time of change for our nation and for our national parks, Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore wants to shine a bright light – a lighthouse beacon if you will – on this very special place and on the people dedicated to protecting the national lakeshore for future generations. That’s the goal of our series entitled “Love our Lakeshore.” (You can tell us why you Love Our Lakeshore by filling out our simple form at this link.)

In this report we explore how the work of keeping park visitors safe on the water requires a team approach and the vital resources of the National Park Service, the US Coast Guard, Red Cliff’s Conservation Wardens and many others.

What thoughts go through your mind when  you’re clutching an overturned kayak as frigid five-to-eight foot waves churn over your head like being caught in the spin cycle of a giant washing machine? If you’re skilled, you might successfully complete a self-rescue maneuver. If that doesn’t work, you might make it to a sandstone outcropping in the nearby sea caves or if you’re really fortunate, you’ll be rescued by emergency responders before the cold water saps your last bit of energy.

In late August of 2021, eleven paddlers survived life-threatening conditions at the mainland sea caves, thanks to rescuers from the National Park Service and a Red Cliff Warden. Some clung to a sandstone ledge until rescuers arrived. The Park Service said three kayakers needed medical attention after extended exposure to the frigid water. Rescuers battled the rough seas to make two separate boat trips between the caves and Little Sand Bay to deliver everyone to safety. Without their quick life-saving actions, things could have taken a major turn for the worse.

This rescue mission, others like it and several fatalities over the years demonstrate that while the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is a beautiful place filled with adventure opportunities, it is also a rugged and wild place where conditions can turn deadly and where safety must come first. It’s a place where dedicated professionals work together to help help you and a quarter million Lakeshore visitors every year enjoy the spectacular area as safely as possible.

Paddling the mainland sea caves

Ensuring your safety is no small task given that the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore includes 21 islands spread out over nearly 290,000 acres. The lakeshore is larger than Rocky Mountain National Park.  On the mainland, 12 miles of shoreline include everything from sandy beaches to sheer sandstone cliffs and caves. During the summer, Lake Superior conditions can quickly change from glass calm to dangerously rough with cold water hypothermia being a constant risk.

Waves crash into sandstone cliffs at Devils Island – Jon Okerstrom photo

A study of search and rescue events from 2006 to 2015 found 133 incidents in which 261 people received help. Most of the missions involved paddlers who got into trouble. During the study period 57 people were ill or injured and four fatalities occurred.  SAR teams documented 25 saves. Since then there have been many more rescues and several fatalities.

The Park Service operates 15 boats during the summer months. The most-urgent missions include medical calls and search and rescue (SAR), for people on the water or on an island who are injured, sick or lost. Whenever a call comes in, Protection Rangers take the lead for the park, working with emergency response staff from local, tribal, state and federal partners, as well as park staff. The first boat on scene is often the one closest to the incident and could be a resource management, maintenance or resource education vessel. The operational area is vast; the park staff small. The park’s SAR team is highly collaborative, with staff from nearly every division devoting time and energy to assist with search and rescue, no matter the time or day of week.

Julie Van Stappen, the lakeshore’s retired Resource Stewardship Director, says, “On big incidents, it’s ‘all hands-on deck’ with any staff with needed abilities pitching in to assist.” Often, resource management staff have special knowledge and skills at getting landing craft into tight, remote spots. Interpretation and facilities staff have multiple experienced EMTs and Wilderness First Responders. Many hands may be needed to carry out an injured visitor on a litter. Administrative staff at park headquarters may assist with emergency radio communications and coordinating additional resources.

Meyers Beach paddlers prepare to explore the mainland sea caves – Mark Peterson photo

Your safety on the water is also top of mind for the people and companies that authorized to provide boating experiences in the park. Lost Creek Adventures helps more than 6,000 park visitors experience the National Lakeshore by kayak every summer. Owner Greg Weiss says, “This park has taken a stance on safety, more so than most parks.” He points to the standards required to operate in the Lakeshore including required training for guides and guide-to-participant-ratios.

He also credits the Park Service with being receptive to feedback from outfitters on what’s working and what’s not. Weiss also says park rangers at Meyers Beach and Little Sand Bay are good at meeting and teaching people what they don’t know about safe paddling. “You can see rangers trying to tell people what they need: a wetsuit, a PFD. People go out in all kinds of different watercraft. The educational aspect is great.”

Julie Van Stappen says those interactions are called PSAR or preventative search and rescue. And they’re especially important at Meyers Beach. She says, “You get some of the least experienced people wanting to see the mainland sea caves. It may look calm at the beach getting to the caves is one of the most dangerous routes if you get into trouble. Depending on the wind direction, waves can ricochet off the sea caves causing waves to come from different directions, converging to create really large waves and hazardous paddling conditions that can flip kayaks. For those that have a hard time getting back in their boats, there are very few places to crawl out of the water.” Van Stappen also says kayak outfitters deserve a big thanks. “Spending a lot of time near the sea caves and having highly trained guides, they have rescued many kayakers that find themselves in trouble.”

Ranger Steve Ballou watching nearby kayakers – Jeff Rennicke photo

Given the sheer size of the National Lakeshore, the variety of conditions and the critical missions on the water every day, collaboration with cooperating agencies, including the U.S. Coast Guard and local law enforcement from nearby communities is critical. Each organization brings its own strengths. For example, Park Service boats can go some places where larger Coast Guard vessels cannot. The Park Service operates six specialized high speed landing craft, ranging from 21 to 47 feet in length. These tough, nimble powerboats with military-style drop ramps in the bow can get rescue teams ashore in remote areas and with their highly skilled operators have rescued scores of distressed lakeshore visitors from storms, capsizes and entrapment in caves and rock ledges.

Julie Van Stappen and the Ardea, one of the NPS boats with military-style drop ramps – NPS file photo

The 11 paddlers rescued in 2021 are grateful for the life-saving work of the rescuers. In fact, one of them made a donation to Friends of the Apostsle Islands National Lakeshore, in honor of the rescuers. She said, “We are so grateful for their skill, compassion, and acknowledge the risks they took that day.” The US Coast Guard awarded the rescuers certificates of merit, the highest civilian service award that can be given at the local level.

Rangers Karl Carlson, Mark McCool, and Tam Hofman as well as Red Cliff Band of Lake Superior Chippewa Indians Warden Zach Peterson received awards for their life-saving efforts in August, 2021

Beyond search and rescue, boat operations are the foundation of everything during the summer season. You might see the largest vessel, NPS Phoenix transporting construction crews and materials to an island to replace a historic lighthouse roof or hauling a pumper truck to island campsites to pump outhouses. Or you might see one of 14 other boats shuttling team members and volunteers to island ranger stations and lighthouses, retrieving the Wave Watch buoys for the season, or delivering resource managers to monitor plants and wildlife or historic buildings. All of these activities depend on well-qualified boat operators. Most are permanent employees because of the level of expertise needed to operate on Lake Superior. Team members trained in boat operation include resource protection, resource stewardship, facility management, and interpretation and education.

Wave Watch buoy retrieval team in action in September, 2024 – Jon Okerstrom photo

Each mission requires two people – a trained operator and a crew member with knowledge of piloting the vessel and operating all of the gear on board. “Every time I board a Park Service vessel on a volunteer mission, I am impressed by the skill and professionalism of the ranger at the helm,” says Friends board member Jon Okerstrom. “More often than not, the operator is cross-training another ranger who gains hours of experience in docking, navigation and more.” With only 30 full time employees, cross-training as many people as possible is a priority. One more essential team member – a master boat mechanic who also trains team members in boat operations.

Van Stappen says park staffing levels have ebbed and flowed and were down a bit coming into 2025. Additional cuts will have consequences. Jeff Rennicke, Executive Director of Friends, puts it this way: “Experienced, well-trained staff are the heart and soul of safety on Lake Superior, the boots on the ground and the eyes on the water in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.”

We salute the people of the National Park Service, partner agencies and authorized on-the-water businesses for their skills and expertise on the water, and for their dedication to making the lakeshore a safer place for everyone. You never know when you might need help from these safety champions and we’re glad they’re ready and able to respond.