Love our Lakeshore: because sometimes you can walk on water to the islands



Written by Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore



Love Our Lakeshore | News



March 6, 2025

During this challenging time of change for our nation and for our national parks, Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore wants to shine a bright light – a lighthouse beacon if you will – on this very special place and on the people dedicated to protecting the national lakeshore for future generations. That’s the goal of our series entitled “Love our Lakeshore.” (You can tell us why you Love Our Lakeshore by filling out our simple form at this link.)

In this report, Neil Howk shares the intersection of a late winter adventure and the rich history of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

I love our lakeshore because sometimes you can walk on water to the islands.

OK… maybe ski on the ice is more accurate. Recent satellite images confirmed that the February cold spell expanded the Apostle Islands ice pack beyond Rocky Island. On February 22nd, Mark Peterson, Jerry Miller and I went to Roy’s Point to ski over to Basswood Island. Mark and I have a tradition of visiting the brownstone quarry at the south end of Basswood almost every year. We missed making the trip last year because the mild winter created minimal ice cover around the islands. Upon reaching Roy’s Point on Saturday, we saw several snowmobiles on the lake and ice fishing shelters at both ends of Basswood Island, so we were comfortable that the ice was thick enough to support us on skis.

Skiing across the frozen lake to Basswood Island

We encountered a park ranger in the parking lot and informed him of our plans. He was preparing to do a snowmobile patrol with some DNR wardens to contact ice fishermen around the islands, but first they were responding to a report of a snowmobile stuck in a pressure crack off the north end of Hermit Island. It was a good reminder that every trip on the ice requires caution.

Four inches of crusted snow on the ice and a stiff crosswind slowed our progress across the channel, but the ice was in good shape and the effort kept us warm. We reached the shore near the old brownstone quarry in about an hour.

Jerry Wilson, Mark Peterson and Neil Howk

Jerry Miller, Mark Peterson and Neil Howk

The quarry on the southern end of Basswood Island had the longest operating history of any in the Chequamegon region. Quarrying began in 1870 when brownstone from the island was selected to construct the Milwaukee County Courthouse. Quarrying the stone took place mainly from April to November. Companies often kept a small crew working over the winter to get ready for the coming season. The panic of 1893 spelled the beginning of the end of operations at the Basswood Quarry.

Forests have reclaimed the quarry in the 125 years since operations ceased at the site. Large white pines now tower above the quarry opening. The cleanly carved sandstone walls surrounding the quarry pit are still plain to see, however. A couple of the 2’ x 4’ x 8’ blocks that were carved from the bedrock still lie at the mouth of the quarry. We brushed the snow off one of the blocks and rested there for a while before walking out on the ice covering the quarry pit. Then we walked around the edge of the opening to view the quarry from above. The forest sheltered us from the wind blowing across the lake and we enjoyed the stillness around the quarry.

Wide shot from the top of the quarry with stair-step stone layers

Wide view from the top of the quarry

Jerry at the top of. the quarry

Neil at the bottom of the quarry

As we prepared for our return to the mainland, I recalled the tale of a Christmas shopping trip that typified the danger of crossing the ice in the winter. In December 1893, Mrs. D. F. McCrae (the wife of a quarry worker) and a friend walked from Basswood Island to Bayfield to buy Christmas presents for their children. They began to walk back to the island about 3:00 p.m. but were caught in a blinding snowstorm and became lost. When they did not return by dark, Mr. McCrae went looking for them with a lantern and compass. He found the party, but his wife was too weak to walk back to the island. Mr. McCrae went back to the island for help and returned to bring his wife home, but she died before reaching the island. With that tragedy in mind, we were happy that our visibility was good, it was easy to follow our path back to the mainland, and a tailwind helped push us on our way.

Preparing to return to the mainland

Checking weather and ice conditions, talking with park staff, filing a trip itinerary, dressing properly, carrying food and drinks helped make our little “walk on water” another memorable experience in the Apostles. One more reason to “Love our Lakeshore.”

Neil Howk began working as a park ranger/interpreter for the National Park Service in 1978. He worked at a number of different parks over the years and served as the assistant chief of interpretation at Apostle Islands National Lakeshore from 1993-2016. He now serves as a board member of Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.