During this challenging time of change for our nation and for our national parks, Friends of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore wants to shine a bright light – a lighthouse beacon if you will – on this very special place and on the people dedicated to protecting the national lakeshore for future generations. That’s the goal of our series entitled “Love our Lakeshore.”

In this report Friends of the Apostle Islands board member and former NPS ranger Neil Howk wraps up his two-week assigment as a National Park Service volunteer stationed on Sand Island by reflecting on the experience, on his interactions with Lakeshore visitors and on what the future holds for the Lakeshore we love. 

Neil Howk at the top of the Sand Island light

The soundscapes of the island are amazing. It’s wonderful to hear the breeze blowing in the treetops, waves washing over the rocks at the lighthouse, the roar of a thunderstorm, the gurgling of the lake sloshing in the recesses of the sea caves, the black-throated blue warbler singing in the old growth forest.

Perhaps most impressive of all is the absolute stillness on a calm night when the quiet is deafening.

Sand Island privy – Neil Howk photo

Sand Island lawn mower – Neil Howk photo

I quickly learned why the NPS usually has two volunteers on the island simultaneously. I am here because the folks who were scheduled to be here had to change their plans and canceled in June. I told the park staff to keep me in mind if they needed help this summer. That’s how I got to spend two weeks in my personal cabin on the lake.

Sand Island light in rain – Neil Howk photo

American flag at Sand Island Light – Neil Howk photo

I’ve enjoyed leading tours of the lighthouse a chatting with visitors in the campground. The visitors have been very appreciative. I’ve been thanked every day, usually more than once, for serving as a volunteer. The thanks came in person and in the visitor register at the lighthouse. In our conversations I usually found out where people are from, whether they’ve been here before, and what they are doing on their trip.

Visitors eating a picnic lunch outside Sand island light – Neil Howk photo

Occasionally, in more in-depth discussions, visitors asked how recent cutbacks are effecting the park. I explain that the park lost a significant portion of its permanent staff early in the year to buyouts and early retirements. This included the superintendent, chief ranger, and resource management chief… a huge loss of experience and institutional memory. Hiring freezes also affected the staff. There are also fewer volunteers. Michigan Island Lighthouse is not staffed this year because there is not enough staff to select, train, transport, and supervise more volunteers.

I spoke with visitors who were disappointed they could not tour the Michigan Island Lighthouse and could not pick up their camping permit at park headquarters because it is closed on Wednesdays, but most visitors have not yet noticed any impact from these cutbacks on their experience. I read a recent news story in which a visitor to Glacier National Park said, “(The park) seems like it’s well maintained. The bathrooms we went to here yesterday were nice. Hopefully It’s not an issue.” When I read that I thought about the vault toilets here on Sand Island. Our visitors are very happy that I clean them every day. But each day the crap accumulates and slowly fills up the vault. At some point the vault can’t take any more and really starts to stink. Hmmm…maintaining the facade but a mess below the surface. That sounds like how the National Park Service is presently operating. We must stop treating Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and all the other national park sites like neglected outhouses. It’s time to “raise a stink” about this situation and give these national treasures the support they deserve.

Signing off,

Neil Howk
Sand Island Volunteer

Sand Island sunrise – Neil Howk photo

Read the entire series

More about Sand Island

To learn more about your next adventure on Sand Island, visit the Discover the Park section of our website. You can also see current alerts, advisories and additional information about Sand Island campsites on the National Park Service website. You can also search our archives for stories about Sand Island’s rich history and more.

Visitors to Sand Island often arrive at the public dock in East Bay. They may camp at one of the 6 individual campsites or 3 group campsites. Most of the sites are near the dock. Some sites have wooden accessible platforms.

Boats often anchor at East Bay, Justice Bay, and Lighthouse Bay, depending on wind conditions. Paddlers sometimes come ashore by beaching their kayaks on a rock ledge beneath the lighthouse at the northern end of the island.